I am a late forties kayak racer. My goal is to compete at the World Masters Games in Turin, Italy in 2013. I will be racing in ICF sprint kayaks. This blog will be my training diary for the next 4 yrs. I use a variety of running, weights, and cross training to hopefully become a better kayaker.

Sunday, July 20, 2008

Paddle Testing At Deas Island

Today I was out testing different configurations of my paddle set up.

I am looking to get another paddle, and this has brought on the discussion of blade size and length to consider. I have tested five different paddles in the last couple of weeks, trying to find one that works for me.

Daryl Remmler from Think Kayaks has been helping me out with this. He has the most paddles of anyone I know.After testing I have narrowed the list down to one. Now I just have to determine the proper length. Daryl had a look at my SET, and we lined it up to his Think paddle.Mine was a good 4 to 6 cms. longer. Which was strange because Daryl and I are roughly the same size. (or height should I say)

So now I am in the process of testing different lengths to find the optimum length for me. I went to Deas Island to do some testing. When I got there the wind was starting to pick up a bit. I thought this would be good for the testing because it will really push me since I was in the Thunder for today's paddle.

So I reduce the length of my blade by about 4 cms. I set it up as short as it would go. Right from the get go, it made a very noticeable difference. I was more stable in the boat than I have been lately. It took me a while to figure out why it made so much of a difference, then it dawned on me, because the length was shorter, I was not bringing the blade past my hip as much. My coach has been on me for this. With the longer blade set up it was very easy to bring the blade past my hip and get into a unbalanced position, and in the Thunder you really notice this, because there is NO forgiveness.

I had a really good paddle with this set up, and it is the length I am going to go with. Now I need to work on the optimal feather angle for me. Everyone seems to have an opinion on what is the best feather angle. Some say 72 degrees, some say 60 degrees. My opinion on it, is that it is up to the paddlers bio-mechanics that determines the correct feather angle.That is the amount that your control side wrist can actually rotate. Everyone had different ranges of motion in all their joints, so to say that a specific feather angle works for everyone does not jive with me.

Here is how I set up my paddles:

I bring all the items I need to set and tape up the blade with me.

When you place the blade into the water on the "on" side the blade should be in a neutral position. That is where the blade is angled to its maximum "catch" position. Too much facing out and the blade is in a open position and you lose power. Too much facing in, and the blade is in a closed position, and as well is losing power. It will not matter which blade size you have, if you have the blade in the right angle you will feel it, because it will be hard to pull.

You can do this on a dock or in your boat, I am going to use the dock as an example. First sit in the proper position for paddling, Knees bent, chest up,(not slouching) looking forward.Now rotate your core like you would in the boat as your are setting up for the stroke. Place the blade in the water vertically, stop and hold it. Look at the blade, does it look in the right position? rotate the blade until it is in a neutral position.You can do some test stokes to determine if it is in the right spot.

Now still holding the shaft and with the blade in the right position, mark the location. Once the spot is marked you can tape on something (string, cut o-ring, rolled up tape, etc) to locate your hand to the paddle. This is so when you grab the paddle it will orientate to the correct position. Make sure you test it a couple of times to make sure. If the blade does not line up in the neutral position when you grab the paddle, you should redo the set up.

With the control side done, you can now move to the other side. With the paddle loosened at the joint (two piece paddle) so it will just rotate if you turn it, place the blade in the water. Look at the position of the blade, and adjust it either way if it is not in the neutral position.Once you have the blade in the right spot, tighten the paddle. Then mark the position on both halves of the paddle. This way you can find the right spot quickly.

This way the blades are set up to your wrist movement. Now what is left is just finding the right distance for your hands on the paddle. I use the generic, place the paddle on my head, and move my hands until they are at 90 degrees to my elbows / biceps. Then I mark each handle at that position with some o-rings and tape.

Then all you need to do is go out and do a test paddle. You should have a solid feel all the way through the stroke. That is it.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

What length paddle did you end up with?

I just went thru a similar exercise, and am now playing with a 2.10 to 2.12, after using the paddle wizard at epickayaks.com.

Previously I was using a 2.17 brasca, and a 2.15 epic mid wing.

dkpearse said...

Hi Steve,

I ended up at 213 cms. We built the paddle with hot melt glue so we can fine tune it later. So I can go even shorter if I want. I also went with one of the new Think one piece Mid wings, with a small shaft.

I really like the small shaft, as I can fit it to my hands, which I was have problems with the larger diameter shafts on both my SET and Epic paddles.

Darrell